Easy Crochet Slipper Socks

Please know that all of this took blinkin’ ages! A reeallly long time. Nevertheless, you asked for a pattern and tutorial and that is what you have got. It’s all free, if I’m lucky I’ll probably make 2 quid from YouTube ads and that’s about it! But, do you know what? I love doing it!! If you would like to support my crochet design adventures, all I ask is that you spread the word. Share share share. And go to Ravelry to buy allll of my designs, the ones that have a price tag!! Cheers, thanks ever so much! xxx

Click on the pic above to go to the video tutorial.  Find the PDF below..

Right, on with the good stuff…

These cosy crochet socks are made out of aran weight yarn, they’ll be comfy in wellies but probably not your posh shoes. Splodge some of that sticky stuff on the soles so that they turn into non-slip slipper socks. Anyway, I’ve gone for a PDF download pattern and it has loads of info.

A word of advice: go for the Leader of the Pac yarn (or similar) rather than the Three Bears yarn. The  latter has very little stretch and is also not as soft and squishy.  The sock I made in that came up slightly smaller too. I’m also not convinced that you should go for 100% natural fibres for socks.

Something else to note: accuracy is important for socks but I think these ones are more forgiving than ones made from 4ply. However it is definitely worth getting the measurements of the foot you’re making these socks for.

Click here for to download the PDF:  Easy Slipper Socks

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The sample I worked up for the tutorial

xxx

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C2C Cowl & Hat. A Free Crochet Pattern

Just a heads up, I got the yarn for this pattern for free from Hobbii, a yarn company from Denmark. During some correspondence I asked if they’d been interested in collaborating in my Corner 2 Corner CAL. Rather happily, they said yes! How great is that!? They are going to give away four balls of Happy Sheep wool as one of the CAL prizes!! OK, on with the show…

As part of the C2C crochet along that I’m hosting this autumn, I thought it’d be a nice idea to have a free pattern on the table. When I first mentioned the idea of a CAL a lot of people told me that they’d not tried the C2C stitch before. I think a few people had tried it and were put off by the (only slightly) weird start (honestly, you get over it pretty quickly!). I decided a free pattern might coerce these fab people into giving C2C another chance. I thought that a video tutorial to accompany it might persuade a few others too…

So, free patterns. Here we have a cowl and a hat using 4 x100g balls of aran weight yarn. The colours and pattern have a funny eighties vibe about them; I’m thinking shell suits and ski jackets, therefore the name of this set is Apres-Ski! I made the cowl first, had loads of yarn left over so thought I’d better squeeze in a hat too. Follow the same chart for the cowl and the hat. For the cowl you just sew up the rectangle (I used mattress stitch) and for the hat, you add some FP/BP stitches along the bottom and gather the top. Easy peasy!

The design is pretty simple, no complicated colour changes or carrying of yarn. Not too much anyway! I drew up the chart on Stitch Fiddle. It’s a been a few years since I stumbled upon Stitch Fiddle and since I’ve been using it, it has become much much better and more advanced. Seeing as it’s a free programme, this is fantastic [and before you question my motives, I am not affiliated with the site, I just use it a lot and like it]. The chart is below but I think I can also share it via Twitter, Facebook and Pinterest, so I’ll do that too.

Notes & Things you need:

  • 5mm hook
  • 4x colours aran weight yarn. I used 4x 100g balls of Happy Sheep Woolpower
  • Needle for sewing in ends
  • Not much time. These things are super speedy!
  • Optional: 10cm pompom maker
  • Pattern is written in UK terms but in the video I use both UK & US speak. A UK treble = US double
  • I changed my colours around a bit but if you want both hat and cowl to be identical, there should be just enough yarn of your chosen main colour to do that.
  • Find the video tutorial HERE

Pattern:

Row 1: 6 ch, 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, 1 tr in next 2 st, turn. [1 block]

Row 2: 6 ch, 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, 1 tr in next 2 st, ss into the 3 ch-sp of previous row, 3 ch, 3 tr into same 3 ch-sp, turn. [2 blocks]

Row 3: 6 ch, 1 tr into 4th ch from hook, 1 tr in next 2 st, *ss into next 3 ch-sp of previous row, 3 ch, 3 tr in same 3 ch-sp; rep from * to end, turn. [3 blocks etc]

Row 4 -11: Continue increasing as Row 3

Row 12: Repeat Row 3, ending with 1 ss in the last 3 ch-sp (ie. do not make the last block), turn.

Row 13: Ss along the next 3 st and into the first 3 ch-sp, (3 ch, 3 tr) in same ch-sp, continue making blocks in each 3 ch-sp to the end, turn.

Repeat Rows 12 & 13 until Row 28.

Row 29: Ss along the next 3 st and into the first 3 ch-sp, (3 ch, 3 tr) in same ch sp, continue making blocks, end with 1 ss into the last 3 ch-sp, turn.

Rep Row 29 to end. To finish ss across the last 3st and into the corner. Fasten off.

Mattress stitch the ends together and voila! A cowl is made!

Turning it into a hat

Round 1: Attach your chosen colour to any stitch along the bottom and chain 3 to count as your first st. Make 2tr into the horizontal bars and 1tr into each of the 3 vertical stitches of the blocks (see hastily hand drawn chart below). Double check you have an even number of stitches. I had 70st.

Round 2. 2ch (doesn’t count as a st), *1 front post tr, 1 back post tr; rep from * around and join to the first st, no turn.

Rounds 3 & 4. Repeat Row 2

Fasten off. With a needle and yarn, gather the other opening to close. Attach a pompom (please watch Episode 39 of my podcast where I make the pompom and sew it on to the hat, as I chat).

Slightly embarrassing …but I’m pretending to hold a ski pole!

And before I go I just wanted to say thanks to Hobbii, they have been great. The emails we exchanged felt really friendly and warm. They were totally up for coming on board the CAL and I got a free row counter (and sweeties!) in my parcel!

I’d love to see your makes. Tag me on Instagram @zeensandroger and if you’re joining in with the CAL, don’t forget to use the hashtag  #c2cCAL18

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hatcowl;p

Hotchpotch C2C Crochet bag

Do you like my new crochet bag!?! I love love love it!! It is made using the corner to corner stitch (or C2C as it’s often called) and is based on the Granny Hotchpotch bag I made a couple of months ago. I don’t think I wrote a blog post about that bag, which is a shame because it is lovely. Here it is…

The idea for both bags is for them to be the ultimate stash busters. You know the sort of thing, all those scraps you saved and don’t know what to do with but don’t want to throw away. I tied loads of them together using the magic knot and just got hooking.

Both the bags are made using my leftovers of Paintbox Simply Aran acrylic but you can use pretty much any yarn you want. It’s a hotchpotch of stuff, see?!

Below I will add a photo of the notes I scribbled to give you a better idea of what’s what. I’m not writing a specific pattern for this one. But before you disappear I will tell you where to find what else you might need/want…

  • For a video tutorial on how to make a small version of the granny bag go HERE. I give a bit of advice about lining (and zips!) too.
  • To hear me gush about the C2C version, go here to YouTube
  • To hear me go into a bit more detail about the granny version go HERE
  • I bought the bag straps from Amazon. Blue ones HERE. Brown ones HERE
  • Adding the handles is just a question of a few stitches through the holes. You will probably need to reinforce these by stitching through a layer of lining too.
  • Lengths of yarn: I saved the shorter ones for each end of the ball as that’s where the shorter rows will fall. Some in the middle might’ve been 4 or 5 gram balls (at a guess) but keep ’em all different for the best look.
  • I have started a board on Pinterest especially for Corner to Corner crochet – I love it that much!
  • For a more thorough C2C bag pattern I have one for sale in Ravelry. It has photo tutorials on the C2C stitch, how to line the bag and add the magnetic clasp.

These are the ones I have on Ravelry. There are 3 bag designs in one pattern.

I haven’t got a muffin top usually. It’s just bulky material as this top is actually a dress!

Right, the notes are extremely basic but I reckon you’ll be able to glean most of the info you need from them. Give us a shout if they befuddle, baffle or bemuse.

If you make a bag of your own, don’t forget to get in touch to tell me all about it! #zeensandroger @zeensandroger over of IG. Sharing a free pattern, no matter how casual it may seem, takes a lot of work. Seeing credit given will always put a smile of the desginer’s face. 😀

You may be interested to know that I’m going to host a C2C Crochetalong in the autumn. I will come back with more info about that nearer the time. All I know is that it’ll be a blast! Cheers. x

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xxx

Granny Market Bag. Free Crochet Pattern

If you’re a bag lady like me, you might be interested to learn that I have a new granny market bag pattern in the latest issue of Olann and magazine. (I’m not even going to mention the fact that it’s made of granny stitches, or the fact that I said I’d back off granny for a bit).

Olann and is a fabulous online magazine and it’s completely free! It’s a brilliant and beautiful resource for all kinds of yarny goodness. Whether you’re a crocheter, knitter or an all round fan of fibre and crafts, you’ll definitely find something in there that you’ll like.  I’m coming off like an annoying ad (soz about that), I don’t mean to, honest, I just happen to really like this magazine; the fact that it’s free is amazing. One of my favourite things is that crochet is so heartily included within the issues. No second class status for us hook wielding folk!

Please go HERE, which takes you directly to the pattern.

I wish I’d had the wherewithal to take another picture so you could see its rounded granny bottom. However, fear not! If you pop over to find the pattern you get to see a couple more pics, and another variation of colours with different striping too!

Deirdre and Lora also have a podcast on YouTube that you might fancy checking out. There’s usually plenty of giggles and a good selection of things they’ve made. Thanks go to Fay from the Crochet Circle Podcast for introducing me to them!

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Easy One Skein Crochet Market Bag. Free Pattern

On Monday I began recording a tutorial for the old version of my crochet net bag. Market bags are massive at the minute and, jumping on the band wagon, I hit record and started making. I got a few rounds in when I started to question its construction. It became quite clear that I was trying to be way too fancy with the pattern; there are some truly unnecessary instructions in there and two years ago, I didn’t ask myself if there was an easier way! I’ve updated it. This is a much simpler version of that bag yet it pretty much looks the same. Here it is…

Pop to YouTube HERE or continue reading for the written pattern. Cheers.

Notes:

  • 3mm hook
  • 1x50g ball cotton dk such as DMC Natura Just Cotton (155m/170yds) (or Rico Essentials dk works well but it’s slightly less meterage so you might want to knock off a round of the main body, just in case)
  • The 3ch at the beginning of the first 4 rounds count as a UK tr/ US dc
  • If you have loose tension, it would be better to go down to a 2.5mm hook
  • The pattern is written in UK terms – where it says “dc”, that’s a US sc and a “tr” is a US dc. So htr is hdc! Easy peasy.
  • No turns are made when making the main body of the bag.

Pattern:

Start with a magic ring (or ch4 and join with a slip stitch).

Round 1: 3ch, 11tr into ring. Join to third ch of initial 3ch with a slip stitch, pull the magic ring to close. [12st]

Round 2: 3ch, 1tr into same stitch, 2tr into each stitch, join to third ch of initial 3 ch with a slip stitch. [24st]

Round 3: 3ch, 1tr in same st, 1 tr in next st, *2tr in next stitch, 1 tr in next; rep from * around. [36st]

Round 4: 3ch, 1 tr in same st, 1tr in next 2st, *2tr in next st, 1tr in next 2st; rep from * around. [48st]

Round 5: 1ch, 1dc in same st. *ch3, miss 1 stitch, 1dc in next; rep from * around until the second to last stitch. At this point, ch1 and make a half tr into beginning dc. (Have a look at the chart above to see how to join rounds.  Placing a stitch marker on the last stitch of each row from here will help enormously) [24 chain spaces].

Round 6: *4ch, 1dc in next ch sp; rep from * around until second to last ch sp, 2ch, 1htr into the top of the last st of the previous round (ie, into the top of the htr of previous round).

Round 7: *5ch, 1dc in next ch sp; rep from * around until second to last ch sp, 2ch, 1tr into the top of the last st of the previous round.

Round 8: *6ch, 1dc in next ch sp; rep from * around until second to last ch sp, 3ch, tr into the top of the last st of the previous round.

Round 9: *7ch, 1dc in next ch sp; rep from * around until second to last ch sp, 3ch, 1double tr into the top of the last st of the previous round.

Round 10 -25:  Repeat Round 9

Round 26: Repeat round 8

Round 27: Repeat round 7

Round 28: 1ch, 1dc in same stitch, 2dc in space, 1dc in dc, *4dc in each ch sp, 1 dc in top of each dc of previous round; rep from *,  2dc in last sp, ss to join to 1st dc [120]

Round 29-30: 1ch, 1 dc in same space, dc around, ss to join.

Handle Stage

Row 1: 1ch, 1dc in same space, 1 dc in next 6st, turn [7]

Row 2: 1ch, 1dc along the next 7 stitches, turn [7]

Repeat Row 2 until desired handle length or when nearing the end of the yarn (I made my handle approx 18″).

Turn your bag inside out. To attach the handle to the other side of the bag, count how many stitches are around the top of the bag. I had 120 stitches. You want your handles evenly spaced, I counted 53 stitches along from the right side of my handle and the next stitch (see pic below) was where I started to attach the other end of the handle. Make sure there are no twists!

The hook should be on the right hand side. If it isn’t, make another row or take one away. Insert hook through first stitch on handle and the chosen stitch on the other side of the bag, yarn over and pull through all loops/stitches. Repeat for the last 6 stitches. Fasten off and sew ends in securely.

This pattern has been designed by me and is for your personal use only. Please visit my Ravelry store for more patterns! Thank you.

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xxx

Hotchpotch Granny Purse.

I’ve decided that this will be called the Hotchpotch Granny purse, it fits the bill quite nicely. A hotchpotch of leftover scraps makes the perfect crochet stashbuster, don’t you think?!

I’ve filmed this as a video tutorial over on YouTube rather than write up a pattern [pop over to watch HERE]. I cover the magic knot, making up the granny stripes and then lining it too. All in eighteen minutes! I also recommend you visit my zip video too [it’s HERE]. If you’ve never put a zip in your crochet before it might well prove useful.

You can use any yarn, along with your favourite corresponding hook size but there pretty much are no rules to this. Ok, there’s one rule: you need multiples of 3 plus 1 for the starting chain. Even if you’re a stitch or two out then I’m sure you can fudge it. Crochet is very forgiving.

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Some More Crochet Easter Eggs

Am I too early for Easter shenanigans? Eh, I don’t think so. Do you remember the pretty little crochet Easter eggs from a couple of years ago? They’ve gone and got themselves some new mates!

A couple of weeks ago I got an email from Hobbycraft asking if I was interested in trying some yarn so that I could tell you about it.  Seeing as spring is on the way I thought it would be a nice idea to choose some yarn to make my amigurumi Easter eggs with. However, I didn’t want more eggs of the same size so I’ve upped my game. I’ve gone large.

This is the stuff I decided to try, The Women’s Institute acrylic dk. I wanted big eggs this time so I also chose the Soft & Chunky in cream, which is an acrylic mix and has 30% merino. It’s lovely stuff to work with, I think merino is my favourite yarn in the world at the moment. I got the dk colours to decorate the eggs with.

With two 100gram balls of the chunky cream, you can make three small eggs and one large. I weighed them before I added the embellishments and a small one was 27 grams whilst the large was 89 grams. It’s exactly the same pattern, I just doubled up on yarn for the biggy.

I’ve not used this yarn before but I have used plenty of other dk acrylics. Mostly I’m left unimpressed and I have a thing where I don’t like mixing my brands together because the quality varies so much. Usually they don’t pass muster but I don’t think I’d have any qualms about mixing this with the likes of Stylecraft Special or Paintbox  (both of which, are excellent to work with). This is one of the good ones. I have quite a bit of the dk left so I might make blanket along with some other brands to really get a good feel for it (but not anytime soon as I have got a massive list of other projects to do! Bah).

Anyway, on to the pattern…

Eeehh, look at the family all together!

This pattern can be used with any weight of yarn, just make sure you use a hook size that will achieve nice, tight stitches (ie go down a couple of sizes than is recommended).

Notes and things you need:

  • The Women’s Institute Premium Acrylic Yarn DK in Yellow, Lime, Teal, Pink and Light Pink.
  • The Women’s Institute Soft & Chunky in Cream x2 100g gram balls. This amount makes 1 large and three  small eggs.
  • Polyfibre fill stuffing
  • Large eye darning needle
  • Fading ink pen (optional) – it helps to draw out where to put the flowers and leaves before you make the stitches.
  • For the small egg (approx 11cm tall) use the 4.5mm hook.  For the large egg (approx 17cm tall) use the 7mm hook and two strands of the chunky held together.
  • Use two strands of the dk together for embroidering the large egg.
  • US terms are used in the pattern

This pattern below is also found on my original blog post HERE. And last year I recorded a video tutorial showing how to make and embroider the eggs, which is HERE over on my YouTube channel!

Amigurumi Easter Egg.

Round 1: 6sc into a Magic Ring.

Round 2: 1 Inc in each stitch around. [12].

Round 3: 1 sc in next stitch, 1 inc in next. Repeat around [18].

Round 4: Sc around. [18]

Round 5: 1sc in next 2 st, 1 inc in next. Repeat around. [24].

Round 6-7: Sc around [24]

Round 8: 1 sc in next 3 st, 1 inc in next. Repeat around [30].

Round 9-15: Sc around. [30]

Round 16: 1 sc in next 3 st, 1 dec. Repeat around. [24].

Round 17: 1 sc in next 2 st, 1 dec. Repeat around. [18].

Round 18: 1sc in next st, 1 dec. Repeat around [12].

Fasten off leaving a long tail, 40cm should be plenty.  Add embroidered flowers using simple stitches. French knots make the flower centres and the chain stitch makes petals, leaves and stems. Stuff firmly. To close the egg, thread through the front loops and pull tight to gather the stitches together. Stitch in and out a few times to fully secure and then snip the end neatly.

Please do let me know if you make some, I really would love to see. They make such cute spring decorations and you could even tie pretty ribbon through the top to hang them places!

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Happy Easter! X

Another Granny Chevron Cowl! Pattern & Tutorial.

Fancy a very quick and easy crochet project? Last summer I designed and made a fluffy chevron cowl (see pic below). Yesterday I made a smaller, non fluffy version. I made it when I was thinking about all things granny (I couldn’t wait for the Granny CAL! I just couldn’t!). This morning I filmed a short tutorial too. It’s now up on YouTube if you want to go and have a look!

You can find the original pattern Here. I made the new one a bit smaller as I was restricted by the amount of yarn I had: 200 grams of chunky alpaca/mulberry silk stuff I found for £8 a skein from EYF last year. The (impulsively bought) yarn had been sat waiting for nearly a year and I had no real idea about what to do with it for ages. Funny how something can jump out at you after all that time.

Righty, some details.

  • I used a 6mm hook for my chunky yarn.
  • The yarn I used was only 92 metres per 100g. I think other chunky yarns are usually a bit more than that. I used almost every bit so if you don’t have at least 184 meters of chunky then you might not make it to the end.
  • It measures approx 32×32 cm (12.5×12.5 inches). That’s a circumference of 64cm.
  • I chained 47 to begin, this gives you a total of 14 clusters per row
  • To make it bigger or smaller, add or subtract 6. That’s enough for a cluster for each side.
  • The pattern is written in UK terms. The video uses both UK and US terms but essentially all you need to know is that a UK treble is a US double.
  • 3tr = cluster.

Pattern:

Chain 47.

Row 1: 3tr in 7th from hook, (miss 2 st, 3tr in next) six times, ch2, 3tr in next st, (miss 2 st, 3tr) six times, miss 2 st, 1 tr in last st. Turn.

Row 2: Ch3, (3tr in space between clusters) six times, (3tr, ch2, 3tr) in 2 chain space, (3tr in space between clusters) six times, 1tr in last st of row. Turn

Row 3 – 29: Rep row 2, changing colour every five rows.

Row 30: As row 2 but slip stitch to join to Row 1 between each cluster. Fasten off and sew in ends.

I hope you like it. I promise it’s super easy to make and can be made in a couple of hours (maybe less, I didn’t time it).

Jeepers, I’m not wearing make up on me peepers. Again!

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Crochet Granny Stripe Scarf. Free Pattern

Here it is, a super simple yet surprisingly effective granny stripe scarf (I’m all over crochet colour block stuff at the moment). My arm doesn’t stretch far enough to allow all the scarf to get in on the action I’m afraid but I do show it off a bit more in Episode 20 of my crochet podcast. I shan’t dilly dally, it’s the pattern you’re after isn’t it?! Here goes…

You will need around 350g dk yarn, a 4mm hook and marginal approximations of brain power. I used Drops Lima: 2x dark grey mix, 2x powder pink, 3x dark blue. I’m not sure it’s the best idea to use something that’s not machine washable, maybe I should have gone for the super wash merino…

If you wanted to, you could go down a hook size for the ribbing, I did (you can see the effect in the above photo). However, it isn’t necessary and I sort of wish I hadn’t.

  • Multiples of three are what’s needed. Chain as many as you like, I chained 54.
  • OK, this is the (sort of) tricky bit but it is important. It will make one teeny little difference depending on whether you have an even or odd number of multiples, it will determine whether you land on a Front Post st or a Back Post st on the second to last stitch of the row. It really doesn’t matter but it will change what you work first on the next row. All you have to remember is to work a BP in an FP and an FP in a BP. That’s what creates the rib effect.
  • UK terms are used here but I use both in the video. A UK treble is a US double.
  • I changed colour after I ran out of each ball.  I counted to double check that the end mirrored the beginning (you never know, your tension might change a bit).
  • Go here to check out the YouTube tutorial

Row 1. 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, 1tr along, turn. For neatness, work in the back bumps of the chain.

Row 2: Chain 3 (counts a first stitch), *1BP, 1FP; rep from * to second to last st. 1 tr in last st, turn (please read notes about  BP & FP).

Row 3-8: Rep row 2 making BPs & FPs accordingly, turn

Row 9: (1dc, 1ch, 1tr) in first st, *miss 2st, 3tr in next st; rep from * finishing with 2tr in the end st, turn.

Row 10: (1dc, 1ch) in first st, *3tr in next space between clusters; rep from * to end, finish with 1tr in last st, turn.

Row 11: (1dc, 1ch, 1tr) in first st, *3tr between each cluster; rep from * to end, finish with two tr in last st, turn.

Repeat rows 10 & 11 until you’re happy with the length. End on Row 11.

Row 12. Chain 3, 1tr in each st along to end, turn.

Row 13-19. Rep row 2 (remember what I said in the notes!!). Fasten off and sew in ends.

Check out the quick tutorial to see exactly where those BP and FP stitches go! Thanks ever so much.

Tell me when you’ve made one. Here I am on Instagram.  #grannystripescarf  #zeensandroger or add it to Ravelry!

This scarf was inspired by the colour block jumper by cleck heaton, which I love! My scarf is a free pattern, you’re welcome to make as many as you like but please let people know where you got the pattern from. No, you can’t reproduce the pattern, or sell it. Nor can you pretend it is yours. It stings when people claim your things as their own. And it ain’t legal!

Don’t forget to come and say hi!! x

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Crochet Christmas Bauble. Free Pattern & Tutorial!!

Christmas is pretty much just around the corner, honestly, it’ll be here before you know it. I’ve noticed this year that crochet baubles are all the rage, so I’ve had a go at my own simple pattern. I’ve made a tutorial for YouTube too, so if that’s more your thing then do jump across to my YouTube channel… Here is where you’ll find the crochet bauble video!

Things you need:

-6cm (diameter) baubles. Mine are from Sainsbury’s but I bought similar from Wilko’s last year.

-3mm hook

-DK cotton in different colours. I’ve tried many brands and they’re all good: Paintbox, Drops,  Dmc Natura, Stylecraft Classique etc

Notes:

  • Fasten off (FO) after each round and join the new colour with a ss just to the right of where you fastened off.
  • If you want to avoid sewing in most ends, crochet over them as you go!
  • UK terms are used in the written pattern, I try to use both in the video.

Pattern – make 2

Begin with a Magic Circle (or ch4 and join with a slip stitch).

  1. Ch1, 1tr,ch1, *tr2tog, ch1* rep from *to* 5 times.  [6 “petals”] Join with a ss to the top of the first petal.
  2. (Ch2, 1tr, ch1, tr2tog, ch1) in same space, (tr2tog, ch1, tr2tog, ch1) in each 1 ch sp. [12 “petals”]. Join with a ss to the top of the first petal.
  3. Ch3, 2tr in first ch sp, 3tr in each ch sp around. Join to top of the ch3. [12 clusters]
  4. Ch2, 1htr in each st around. [36]
  5. Ch1, 1dc in each st around. Join with ss.

Make two halves. Sew in the first and last ends. Do not FO after round 5 on the second half. Place both halves together, right sides out and ss together, facing loops only. Just over half way, wriggle the bauble into its jacket and continue to ss together. This can be fiddly but it’s worth it! Sew in last end, using it to tidy around the hanging bit if you need to. Make several!!

Fancy giving it a go?! Please do give me a shout if you have found the pattern/tutorial useful. A thumbs up on YouTube helps too, I understand it gets more reach or some such thing. Thank you very much!

By the way, please do go ahead and share a link to this pattern. Sharing is truly marvellous! But I ask ( really rather nicely, please, thank you, please) that you credit Zeens and Roger if you do. Just don’t rewrite it and pretend that it’s your own. I hate that. If that’s you, go and design your own bauble. Thank you ever so much.

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